
Lesson 1: the Tools and the Knots

TOOLS
The first investments needed to begin fly-tying are
quite small. The important tool is the vise. The price of a basic model for a
beginner is 10 to 20 euros. You have to buy from the fishing-store bobbin holder ,
fly-tying thread, hacklepliers, varnish (clear) and flyhooks, too. At home You most
probably can find scissors with sharp tips (fingernail scissors), tweezers, needles and
toothpicks. Fly-tying materials are possible to find at Your home, too, especially, if
someone in Your family has knitting or other fancywork as hobby.
A lot of fly-tying is to know different materials
how they act in tying and how to handle them correctly.
Fly-tying is a skill with disclipline: every type of
flies has its own certain relationships between different parts of the fly. These rules
are worth of following. Many of the flytypes have developed during tens of years, even
over hundred years. That time the swimming and outlook of these flies have pleased fishes
and they still do. Fly-tying is a skill of hands: You can become good and better and
better only with practice and practice.

From the left: Spigot with black thread, scissors,
hacklepliers, pincers, needle, toothpick and a bottle of clear varnish
Bobbin holder: is a holder of the tying thread.
Put the reel between the jaws and pass the thread through the pipe. Usually the pipe is
made of metal can be finished a little bit roughly, which perhaps makes some problems with
thread. You can even this roughness by polish the pipe with coarse woolen yarn.
A good buy for a beginner is a ceramic bobbin holder.
It is more expensive than normal models, but it saves the thread from breaking.
Of course using too much power breaks the thread. Try
to learn the right way of handling the bobbin: Add or reduce the length of the thread by
rolling the reel with Your thumb, forefinger and middle finger. When You add the length,
do not pull straight from the bobbin.
Fly-tying thread: Use always the special
threads purposed for fly-tying. The advantage of these threads is, that they are waxed in
the factory. Earlier, when usual threads were used, they had to wax while tying the flies.
Waxing makes the dressings stronger. The fly does not become brittle, when it wets and
dries several times. Most common is used black thread, but red, green or brown are
mentioned in many dressing-recipies.
The thicknees of the threads is defines with
/0-tables. The smaller the number infront of /0 is the thicker the thread is. Large
dressings like salmon-flies and streamers are tyed with 6/0 thread. Most commonly is used
thread in class 8/0. Very small midges and insect dressings are tyed with 12/0 or special
thread like Spiderweb.
Scissors: Nail-scissors with straight or curved
tips are suitable for fly-tying. Save the sharpness of the tips: Cut wiyh the tips only
soft materials. If you have to cut hard materials like wires, use the lower part of the
scissors. A good solution is two pairs of scissors: One for soft and one for hard
materials.
Hackle-pliers: This tool is important, when a
hackle is tyed with a feather. The other way to use pliers is, when a dubbed body is made.
The best way to learn, how to use this tool, is presented, when we are tying different
flies.
Tweezers: are a handy tool, when You have
choose small materials or hooks from a box. Tweezers help, when You have to put hairy
materials in a dubbing-loop, too.
Needle: is needed, when some hair has to be
picked out of dubbing or when You have to handle the tail or the hackle neater. A needle
or a pin is ok as dubbing-needle.
If You are handy, You can make yourself a nice dubbing
needle like they sell in stores. Take a piece of wood or plastic (pen or ballpoint pen)
and set a needle in with glue.
Do not use the dubbing needle for varnishing flies.
Save the needle clean for the works that need accurary.
Toothpick: is a tool, when You have to varnish
the head or the body of a fly
Varnish: The varnish is used to make the
priming for the dressing. When the first layer of thread is varnished, it fastens all the
other materials on the otherwise quite slippery hook shank, too. It is enough, that the
priming is varnished. Second way to use varnish is when the fly is finished: Varnish the
head of the fly. This makes the dressing and whip finish durable.
Mostly used is clear varnish. Black and red varnish is
needed in some larger flies.
WARNING! In the picture You can find that the bottle
is open. This is absolutely sure way to cause a terrible mess on your table. Close the
bottle allways when You do not need the varnish at once. Your table stays clean and the
varnish does not dry out.
THE KNOTS
There are only three different knots You need in
fly-tying: The start knot, half hitch and whip finish. Now we learn the first two of them.
When You tie 3-5 half hitches at the end of dressing, it compensates the whip finish,
which we learn later.
The learning of the knots is easier, when You first
practise them with a thicker thread than tying thread. In the following pictures the knots
are tyed with 30 lbs backing line.
The Start Knot

The vise is the shank of the hook. Take the free end in
your left hand ( left handed do visa versa) and the other end (= bobbin) in your right
hand. Press the thread against the hook shank.

Turn the thread away from yourself on the shank so that
the free end remains under the turn.


Turn 6-8 turns so that the free end remains under the
turns. Fasten the turns with a half hitch. When You let the bobbin hanging free, its
weight hold the turns. Cut away the extra free end.
The Half Hitch

Take the bobbin in your left hand and make a loop like in
the picture out of the thread. It is important that the thread to the shank is all the
time tight.

Turn the loop behind the shank. Hold the loop tight.

Take the tight loop on a needle or tips of the scissors.
The bobbin is now hanging free and hold the thread tight. When You pull the bobbin, You
can with the needle steer the knot exactly to the right place.
In the next lesson we tie the first fly: Red Tag

Red Tag is a wet fly. We need wet fly hook size 10 or 12.
Two inches of red wool, some peacock herls and a brown cock feather for the hackle.
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